Broken Head Bolt


Uncle Gump

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I think what I would try is a transfer punch the size of the bolt. Then I would proceed to smack it with a hammer until I destroy it trying to get a center punch in the middle of that bolt. Then if you do... as others have suggested... use a drill guide to try and keep the drill going straight. Hopefully that bolt didn't bottom out on the block... it will be really tough to use an easy out if it did.

I also agree with dirtman... final torque on most torque to yield stuff is in degrees not in foot pounds.

Another thing... if you can get the broken bolt issue resolved... I would pull the other head off also.. new bolts... proper procedure and give the head installation another go entirely.
 


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Up to '98 used 4.5" long head bolts. '99+ used 5.5" long head bolts. Are you using the longer bolts and they're bottoming out?

Edit: The'99+ are TTY.
 

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I think what I would try is a transfer punch the size of the bolt. Then I would proceed to smack it with a hammer until I destroy it trying to get a center punch in the middle of that bolt. Then if you do... as others have suggested... use a drill guide to try and keep the drill going straight. Hopefully that bolt didn't bottom out on the block... it will be really tough to use an easy out if it did.

I also agree with dirtman... final torque on most torque to yield stuff is in degrees not in foot pounds.

Another thing... if you can get the broken bolt issue resolved... I would pull the other head off also.. new bolts... proper procedure and give the head installation another go entirely.
29245

Mine is a 96 which is a 2 step process.
 

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Up to '98 used 4.5" long head bolts. '99+ used 5.5" long head bolts. Are you using the longer bolts and they're bottoming out?

Edit: The'99+ are TTY.
No. I would have broken them all. One whole head is installed with same bolts and no issues.
 

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Another thing... if you can get the broken bolt issue resolved... I would pull the other head off also.. new bolts... proper procedure and give the head installation another go entirely.
This! You have no idea if the rest of those bolts are ready to explode.... I would not trust ANY of them. Start completely over with bolts from a different place and re-checking your tools and procedure.
 

Uncle Gump

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That's why I said "most" torque to yield bolts. So at least we know you did it how the book said.

I would then think that there is issue with your torque wrench... or perhaps your technique with the torque wrench. I have a MAC clicker that I have used for close to 40 years and have torqued mega amounts of stuff with it. The one constant is I always do what i described previously. If you pull a clicker wrong... it just doesn't work right... and your torque values will be all over the place.

The biggest hurdle you have at the moment is getting the old bolt out.
 

Dirtman

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Depends what that book is... factory ford tech manual, treat it like the bible. Haynes or chiltons manual, treat it like 3rd hand rumors from a drunk dude you met at a carnival.

Adsm probably has acess to the actual ford tech manual info. I would ask him if he can verify the procedure.
 

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Depends what that book is... factory ford tech manual, treat it like the bible. Haynes or chiltons manual, treat it like 3rd hand rumors from a drunk dude you met at a carnival.

Adsm probably has acess to the actual ford tech manual info. I would ask him if he can verify the procedure.
Shit! You got me. ....... it's Haynes. My next step at this point is to drag it a half mile to a mechanic. I forgot to mention, the bolt in question is #6 cylinder last bolt on bottom next to firewall with brake booster in the way. Anyway, I've decided if the mechanic won't do it, (wouldn't blame him. I won't work on a floor someone else started) then I'm pulling the engine. I'm only a dozen bolts or less away anyway. I think once on a stand I'll have better luck taking out the bolt and installing the heads.
 

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Depends what that book is... factory ford tech manual, treat it like the bible. Haynes or chiltons manual, treat it like 3rd hand rumors from a drunk dude you met at a carnival.

Adsm probably has acess to the actual ford tech manual info. I would ask him if he can verify the procedure.
After working with factory manuals, Haynes and Chilton manuals fall way short. The Haynes for my Honda CR-Vs was absolutely horrible and got chucked almost immediately. THey are better than nothing but the factory repair manual is well worth they money they charge. I'm just disappointed that they got away from printed manuals, at least at Helm. I had to get a CD for the 2019.
 

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After working with factory manuals, Haynes and Chilton manuals fall way short. The Haynes for my Honda CR-Vs was absolutely horrible and got chucked almost immediately. THey are better than nothing but the factory repair manual is well worth they money they charge. I'm just disappointed that they got away from printed manuals, at least at Helm. I had to get a CD for the 2019.
I guess I could always stop by my local dealership and ask. They might be in a good mood that day.
 

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I guess I could always stop by my local dealership and ask. They might be in a good mood that day.
They might even copy the page for you.

I would offer to do it but I don't think mine goes back that far.
 

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70 sounds about right. I just did this on my B3000. The factory service manual does ask that you back off the bolts one turn before doing the final tighten sequence on them for max grip. Specifically the FSM calls out
Cylinder Head Bolt — Tighten in
two steps 50 N-m (37 Ft-Lb) 92
N-m (68 Ft-Lb)
 

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After working with factory manuals, Haynes and Chilton manuals fall way short. The Haynes for my Honda CR-Vs was absolutely horrible and got chucked almost immediately. THey are better than nothing but the factory repair manual is well worth they money they charge. I'm just disappointed that they got away from printed manuals, at least at Helm. I had to get a CD for the 2019.
I'm a little confused. I looked online for a factory service manual and get tons of results that are pdf format for about $15 on average. This can't be the actual ford manual.
 

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I paid 90 for used 4 book paper manuals for my 2009 (all together about the size of 3 phone books), 15 for a pdf copy doesn't sound bad.
 

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I'm a little confused. I looked online for a factory service manual and get tons of results that are pdf format for about $15 on average. This can't be the actual ford manual.
Some people will scan the manual or buy the CD with the pdf and burn copies and sell the scans/copies for a profit. Best bet is to look on a site like Helm to get an idea what you are looking for and what it should look like. From there you can decide if the $15 pdf deal is legit and worth it or not or if you would rather just go to an official source.
 


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