Ranger Smith
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 21, 2019
- Messages
- 2
- Reaction score
- 2
- Points
- 3
- Location
- IL
- Vehicle Year
- 1992
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 2.3
- Transmission
- Manual
First off Hello to all, it is my first post here, but I've read a lot prior to this and I apologize if this is in the wrong section. As the title to this post states, don't ignore a strange noise. As an ASE mechanic I should know better than this and I got lucky as hell. On my way home from work a few days ago, I started to hear a strange noise coming from the front drivers wheel and feeling it in the steering wheel. Coming up to a stoplight I felt a pulsing in the brake pedal and the steering shimmied a bit too.. "Warped Rotor" was my first best guess and no real big deal, just a nuisance, albeit one that must be addressed soon.
I had a day off work coming up so all I needed to do was get to work and home one more day ( 10 miles) No big deal------ DUMBARSE! I should have popped off the tire and looked that night. Well coming home the night before my day off it got worse and the "warped" feel turned into a grinding and a real bad shimmy or the brake and wheel... ½ a mile to home so I put on hazards and slow crawled it, never shifting out of second gear. Pulling up to my driveway I pushed on the brakes and wham all the way to the floor as I turned into it... I hope none of you ever have that experience of foot to floor and no stoppie.... Those of you that have, you know that heart dropping, slow motion, foot pumping as fast as you can feeling trying to stop... Let's just say if my truck weren't a manual transmission and an automatic, I probably would've needed a new garage door. Instead realizing I wasn't getting brake pressure, I shut the ignition off and choked Smith down to a stop inches from the door.
I then pushed him into the garage and took a quick look under, nothing leaking, nothing obviously broken, but I did notice the inner rotor surface was gouged up pretty good, then I noticed the inboard pad was missing!!! That explained the lack of braking power, but how did that happen? The next day is when I found my answers...
Taking the trash out to the curb before starting the troubleshooting, I noticed a piece of metal a car lengths back from my driveway... Yep it was my inboard pad.
I'm not exactly what initially caused the cataclysmic event that led to the brake failure, but it was not the brakes. When I lifted the driver's side up, the wheel skewed a good 4 inches, no kidding. Up, down, left, right and about half as much in and out.... Bearing.... As I'm moving the tire around, I'm hearing and seeing pieces of metal fall to the floor and yep rollers from the bearing(s)...
With the wheel off I discovered the manual 4WD hub insides were destroyed but luckily the axle was spared, the outer bearing was destroyed, the retaining washer was so deformed, it made its way past the locking C clip. The races in the rotor were totally fried, the grease seal was in pieces, the inner bearing seemed OK, but the spline itself was gummed up where the outer bearing used to ride on from the pieces of it breaking apart.
My best educated guess is that the inner retaining nut broke off that stupid little pin and started the whole process of loosing the outer nut through vibrations, etc... The outer nut forcing it self into the retaining washer wore it down and deformed it to the point that is jumped over the C clip and into the Hub assembly messing it up royal. Meanwhile the outer bearing has all kinds of play now to self destruct and the more it did, the looser the wheel got... The constant flexing on the spline actually compressed the caliper piston back to the point where the pad was ready to fall out and must have happened on that last turn onto my street. I also don't know where, but all that flexing and compressing of the caliper also cause the upper guide "pin" to fall out which probably isn't that far from the corner...
Parts List:
1 rotor 65.00
bearing set 20.00
grease seal 5.00
tube of bearing grease 7.00
set of guide pins 17.00
retaining washer 28.00
brake cleaner 5.00
Scrapyard manual 4wd hub @ 20.00, new 65.00 (availability pending)
Total cost @ 170.00 and some
Now I can't be 100% sure that if I had opened it up when I first heard the noise would've cheapened the repair any, I mean after all, what more damage could 10 miles really do anyway---haha. What I can tell you is that cars and trucks DO NOT make funny noises. They make problem noises and that problem will not go away by itself. Smoking from the rear will not go away if you adjust your mirrors, bad sounds from the drive train and or suspension will not go away if you turn up the radio and most importantly, the longer you wait, the more costly the repair will become and dangerous too.... My brakes could've failed at anytime and caused major damage, injury or death.... Smith may be pushing 30 years old with 497K miles on him and like me has creaks and groans, but you'd better be sure next time anything is out of the ordinary, I won't monkey around with waiting!!!
I had a day off work coming up so all I needed to do was get to work and home one more day ( 10 miles) No big deal------ DUMBARSE! I should have popped off the tire and looked that night. Well coming home the night before my day off it got worse and the "warped" feel turned into a grinding and a real bad shimmy or the brake and wheel... ½ a mile to home so I put on hazards and slow crawled it, never shifting out of second gear. Pulling up to my driveway I pushed on the brakes and wham all the way to the floor as I turned into it... I hope none of you ever have that experience of foot to floor and no stoppie.... Those of you that have, you know that heart dropping, slow motion, foot pumping as fast as you can feeling trying to stop... Let's just say if my truck weren't a manual transmission and an automatic, I probably would've needed a new garage door. Instead realizing I wasn't getting brake pressure, I shut the ignition off and choked Smith down to a stop inches from the door.
I then pushed him into the garage and took a quick look under, nothing leaking, nothing obviously broken, but I did notice the inner rotor surface was gouged up pretty good, then I noticed the inboard pad was missing!!! That explained the lack of braking power, but how did that happen? The next day is when I found my answers...
Taking the trash out to the curb before starting the troubleshooting, I noticed a piece of metal a car lengths back from my driveway... Yep it was my inboard pad.
I'm not exactly what initially caused the cataclysmic event that led to the brake failure, but it was not the brakes. When I lifted the driver's side up, the wheel skewed a good 4 inches, no kidding. Up, down, left, right and about half as much in and out.... Bearing.... As I'm moving the tire around, I'm hearing and seeing pieces of metal fall to the floor and yep rollers from the bearing(s)...
With the wheel off I discovered the manual 4WD hub insides were destroyed but luckily the axle was spared, the outer bearing was destroyed, the retaining washer was so deformed, it made its way past the locking C clip. The races in the rotor were totally fried, the grease seal was in pieces, the inner bearing seemed OK, but the spline itself was gummed up where the outer bearing used to ride on from the pieces of it breaking apart.
My best educated guess is that the inner retaining nut broke off that stupid little pin and started the whole process of loosing the outer nut through vibrations, etc... The outer nut forcing it self into the retaining washer wore it down and deformed it to the point that is jumped over the C clip and into the Hub assembly messing it up royal. Meanwhile the outer bearing has all kinds of play now to self destruct and the more it did, the looser the wheel got... The constant flexing on the spline actually compressed the caliper piston back to the point where the pad was ready to fall out and must have happened on that last turn onto my street. I also don't know where, but all that flexing and compressing of the caliper also cause the upper guide "pin" to fall out which probably isn't that far from the corner...
Parts List:
1 rotor 65.00
bearing set 20.00
grease seal 5.00
tube of bearing grease 7.00
set of guide pins 17.00
retaining washer 28.00
brake cleaner 5.00
Scrapyard manual 4wd hub @ 20.00, new 65.00 (availability pending)
Total cost @ 170.00 and some
Now I can't be 100% sure that if I had opened it up when I first heard the noise would've cheapened the repair any, I mean after all, what more damage could 10 miles really do anyway---haha. What I can tell you is that cars and trucks DO NOT make funny noises. They make problem noises and that problem will not go away by itself. Smoking from the rear will not go away if you adjust your mirrors, bad sounds from the drive train and or suspension will not go away if you turn up the radio and most importantly, the longer you wait, the more costly the repair will become and dangerous too.... My brakes could've failed at anytime and caused major damage, injury or death.... Smith may be pushing 30 years old with 497K miles on him and like me has creaks and groans, but you'd better be sure next time anything is out of the ordinary, I won't monkey around with waiting!!!