98 2wd extended cab XLT body to 99 4x4 extended cab frame


Miller4139

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I have a 98 with a 3.0 and auto trans that the engine is seized. I found a 99 that has been rolled I'm curious how hard a body swap would be to do. Not sure which engine is in the 99. Hoping to get more news about it tonight or tomorrow. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated
 


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don4331

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The '99 drive train better be mint; better still 4wd & '98 cab similarly mint/sentimental as you are looking at ton of work.

Swapping the box isn't too bad; 6 bolts to frame, 3 bolts for the fuel filler, electrical connection for the lights and 2 strong individuals can lift it off.

Swapping cabs is more challenging. Start with removing the rolled cab, but don't throw it away.

Similarly, there are 6 bolts to frame, add a cable for cab to cross member which needs to be removed. You need to disconnect throttle cable, brakes i.e. master cylinder from booster, the 3 wiring connectors, steering column and transmission (manual is more complicated than auto. I think there is also a wiring harness to transmission that needs disconnecting. You may wish to remove some "delicate" items like rad, ac condenser, hood, grill, seats, etc. Don't remove doors - you want them closed to improve integrity when you lift. Cab is ~500lbs. There are probably couple more connections I missed, that you find as cab goes up. I did initial lift with floor jacks/engine crane, while I was confirming all connections had been disconnected; then a loader & engine crane for the final lift - wide strap through open windows/blanket on door frame to further distribute load. Loader took weight, engine crane at front ensures straight up lift.

Repeat for the '98 truck.

'99 has next generation PATS so it is easiest to replace the dash to get all required wiring anyways. Get keys and move ignition/door tumblers. I don't know how much of under hood wiring is identical (knowing Ford, not much).
 

adsm08

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It is a lot of work, but I think Don is overstating it a bit.

6 guys can lift a cab with the seats and dash stripped pretty easily.

The easiest way to do this is to remove donor bed, remove donor cab to the rear, install donor cab from the rear, install donor bed.

I did this with some friends a few years ago and what we found was that we couldn't lift the whole cab high enough to clear the engine and come in from the front, but it wasn't hard to get the front of the cab up high enough and bring it in from the rear.
 

don4331

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500lbs / 6 guys is ~80lbs each, not an unreasonable amount for each individual. Box is probably 250lbs, and my son and I have loaded box on top of the existing box to transport with just 2 of us. :cool: But when you have tractor with loader & engine crane, why strain your back? If I didn't have loader, I would have rented a gantry crane - the $200 to make it almost effortless to lift versus someone getting hurt is now worth it to me - I have learned something over the years.

I would sooner be slightly pessimistic on effort, have it turn out easier and be completed, than optimistic and project not result in running truck.
I don't think I missed any significant steps. (I, of course, took opportunity with box and cab off to clean/paint frame).​

Replacing blown engine in the '98 with running 3.0 is lot less work; just saying.
 

adsm08

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