1973 courier/ ranger build

[BlackBII]

Those rockers are legit!

Looking good man!

 

[1991fordranger1]

I swear I've been working on the truck just not updating it religiously.

The question of the day is

Axle under or axle over springs? I've read on line but what's some other opinions? My dana 44 up front is axle over springs rear is axle under spring. I do have the 4 inch lift springs for the front but will still need dropped down ears for the front of the leaf the shackle on the back can be made to suit

Not the greatest pictures and the drivers side tire is low so it makes the gap look worse. I don't know I'm kinda torn on what to do

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I prefer a spring under as there is less axle wrap. Also, I'm not a rocks guy, but I think there is less chance of getting hung up if the springs are under.

 

[1991fordranger1]

I live in the Prairies we don't have crazy rocks here to climb it's going to be a cruiser basically take my wife on dates and drive 2 and a half hours to work with my dad on occasional weekends. I like the factory set up too just because less steering has to be changed I just need height for diff clearance. And I will find trails I know that just not rock bouncing trails

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

[1991fordranger1]

I need some opinion here I only have about 3 inches between the pumpkin and crossmember. in the current configuration when I add my 3x2x.250 tube on the front the center of my ears for my leafs will be down 6inches from the bottom of the tube I'm worried with my droop of my leafs as they settle my 3 inch clearance is going to be eaten up pretty fast. So I probably should go axle under leafs to gain 4 inches more clearance and not have to have my ears drop so much.

My steering becomes a issue then I need some advice on this one. I'm stuck on this part.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Looking from the front, cut the crossmember following the outside line of the pumpkin. Leave about .5" of channel. Form a piece of flatbar to follow the curve and weld it in place. You should be able to get 2" maybe 2.5" of extra clearance. I don't know if that's enough for you.

 

[1991fordranger1]

Looking from the front, cut the crossmember following the outside line of the pumpkin. Leave about .5" of channel. Form a piece of flatbar to follow the curve and weld it in place. You should be able to get 2" maybe 2.5" of extra clearance. I don't know if that's enough for you.

How much up travel will that axle hop up. I probably will get some say from settling weight I guess I can have dropped ears just have to make it look good

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

[1991fordranger1]

I got a new to me cnc mill at work here before Christmas.

I hadn't wrote any g code in a couple years so for a training exercise I decided to make some T3 turbo flanges so I can reposition my turbo on my truck.

There are two there bolted together one is to get the 10mmx1.5 studs in it the other is to just fit over the manifold.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

[bobbywalter]

i am with floored on the k member...some 1/2 in flat to make the corner may be worth the effort for up travel.

for sure reinforcement gussets/bracketry at the frame. though i assume that is in the works.




nice work on the flanges....may need to bug you about those.


how thick can you make them?

 

[1991fordranger1]

I can make them to suite those are half inch just because I had flat bar there.



Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

[1991fordranger1]

Over kill I know but I'm going to machine my spring perches out of solid stock I have access to my mill and have 2.5x2.5 sold stock laying around at the shop. The original perches are solid cast so not going to hurt anything and it will be done

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

[1991fordranger1]

There ya go heavy duty and built hopefully will burn them on tomorrow level with the mounts on the under side

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Unless you preheat those, you're going to lose a TON of welding heat in those things. On the upside, it may keep you from putting too much heat in the tubes. On the downside, it could make for a weak weld..




GB

 

[1991fordranger1]

Unless you preheat those, you're going to lose a TON of welding heat in those things. On the upside, it may keep you from putting too much heat in the tubes. On the downside, it could make for a weak weld..









GB

It's good to pre heat cast when welding in general I'll be heating both pieces before doing any welding I'll even blast my construction heater at the it while heating up the shop before I go in there as it was -27c this morning

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

[1991fordranger1]

Got the perches welded on and kinda slung under my truck I need to level up the truck a bit more and see how I'm going to make my front cross member been sick and dealing with a sick 1 year old hope to get some progress on mounting I think by doing the top mounted springs I gained room steering is going to be another challenge but may have to bite the bullet and buy flat top knuckles

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk