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Did you get a sheet explaining how to use the bushings when you bought them? I have some of the Napa ones that go to either 3.5 degrees, or 4 degrees... I can't remember; however, the important thing is that I have the sheet that explains how to align the letters up to give a certain amount...

I had my cylinder head gasket give out on me not too long ago. Once I pulled the head, I found coolant getting into cylinder #4, and a chipped piston on cylinder #1. The gasket had been blown away between cylinders #1 and #2. My question is this: how did all this happen to cylinder #1? I...

What do you all think?

Nope. Gotta prove you wrong there. Two inches in the front will require 75lbs (two 50lb bags) of sand split equally inside the front fenders. Four inches in the back will be easier; you'll only need five sandbags (50lbs) to get the rear to sag that much. Good luck with fuel economy...

If you get tired of waiting, here is a set of pretty dang new beams that someone is selling on this site. Dream Beams for Gen 1

Drop spindles aren't made for rangers. Sorry man, but that's how it is.

Get a tow-ball wrench! They have both 1 1/8" and 1 1/2" and are priceless for working on ranger front ends. CookieMonster, you'll find that it's nearly impossible to ruin the spring hardware when taking them out. Once you get the exposed nut off of the radius arm/I-beam bolt, you will be able...

I really want to see this spring setup... I'm still a little bit skeptical of it, to be honest.

Great trade!!

Gunslinger, can you stand on your rear bumper and make the back end move up and down by 6" or more? If so, you have shackles. If you didn't, then the back of the truck would barely move at all when you jump up and down on the bumper. The reason rangers do ride rough in the back is because...

Welcome to The Ranger Station, man. DJM's 4/5 kit is the most well known kit for that year of ranger. There isn't much else you can do except for coils and shackle flips (not as much drop) or air bags (not as practical for daily drivers). Search through the forums; you'll find LOADS of...

Nah, they're easy. Especially if they're new, which yours are. I rented a tool from O'reillys and it made pressing balljoints a breeze.

Oh yes, that is lowered. It looks as though it's done with cut coils in the front (because of the camber in the pic of it being driven) and an shackle flip in the rear. Stock first and second gen rangers sat lower than the gen threes and later. It looks good though; just need to fix that...

Even if your beams don't have the balljoints in them, you can still use those beams in your ranger. Both sets of I-beams can be used in any year of I-beam Ranger, but ONLY if you prepare the right parts. For example, I used '83-'88 beams in my '94 ranger. If you're curious as to how, just let...

Oh, and the only fluid you'll have to worry about is the brake fluid, but only if you disconnect the brake lines. I was able to flip my axle without disconnecting the emergency brake cables and hydraulic brake lines because my spring brackets were bolted in place (not riveted) and so that...

Yeah, I don't think he understands that the shackle is the flexy thing in between the spring and the riveted bracket.

Weld? You won't have to weld anything. Why are you thinking that you'll have to weld something? These brackets are held into the original spring perches by the u-bolts' tension.

Doorgunner, our trucks have the same rubber. (random, yet interesting, I know.)

Tonight, and after spending five hours on it, I figured out why my rear differential was leaking bad enough that it runs itself dry rather quickly. The 8.8" that came in my ranger has always had problems with leaking, but it has progressively gotten worse over the years. At first, I started...

That's a real good comparison for him to look at, Doorgunner. :thefinger: :icon_twisted: REALLY good comparison... :icon_thumby: