Three vs. Four vs. Five Link vs. IRS

[JOLENE_THE_RANGER]

what is it youre trying to do exactly? any sort of pan hard bar really wont do much for you. if youre getting wheel hop you can do track bars but in my years of haulin ass offroad the set up has always been a good spring pack such as deaver, and a tuneable shock such as a king, fox, swayaway smooth body or external bypass.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

what is it youre trying to do exactly? any sort of pan hard bar really wont do much for you. if youre getting wheel hop you can do track bars but in my years of haulin ass offroad the set up has always been a good spring pack such as deaver, and a tuneable shock such as a king, fox, swayaway smooth body or external bypass.

Mostly learn, tbh. I do get some side to side sway in the rear end, and want to end it. Looking at track bar setups currently. And reading about what can be done on the front.

Someone in the past mentioned a Toyota front suspension swap?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Mostly learn, tbh. I do get some side to side sway in the rear end, and want to end it. Looking at track bar setups currently. And reading about what can be done on the front.

Someone in the past mentioned a Toyota front suspension swap?

Youll lose alot of abuse taking strength over a TTB.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The leafsprings are supposed to locate the axle. A panhard bar swings in an arc. A watts link doesn't. Only way it makes sense to use either is to uncouple the axle from the springs. In other words to let the axle tubes rotate within the spring perches, which would have to be custom made to fully encircle the axle tube. This would take any spring wrap out of the equation, and also locate the axle precisely side to side. Now you have essentially the same as a coil spring set up, but heavier. Unless class rules say you have to keep stock suspension, it would be better to fit in coils.

Edit; somethings else I forgot, the new spring perches need to slide up and down the springs or the 4 link will not work properly.

 

[bobbywalter]

i keep the shocks on the same side of the axle to get rid of the side stepping.


people that dont drive on shitty roads dont know what that is. but it works great for lightly loaded med-heavy sprung rangers in shithole detroit terrain....of course it requires compromise due to it being a required compromise from go.

 

[snoranger]

It sounds like you're not looking to go hard-core wheeling, more of a dirt road/ rally race truck... I would go with IFS/IRS. (Ranger front/ modified t-bird/Explorer/mustang rear. Which ever you can get.)
This setup:
-It will give to best handling.
-it will hold up fine to 31" tires (or even a little bigger.)
-It will keep a low COG.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

i keep the shocks on the same side of the axle to get rid of the side stepping.


people that dont drive on shitty roads dont know what that is. but it works great for lightly loaded med-heavy sprung rangers in shithole detroit terrain....of course it requires compromise due to it being a required compromise from go.

I didn't know that's the cause of the ass end kicking out. Good to know.

 

[bobbywalter]

If you want a rally truck "corner carver" I would stay away from the TTB/TIB front suspension. They are terrible in corners, will jack up and raise the center of gravity when going thru "s" corners. They are great for jumping. If I was to do my race truck over I would use SLA type suspension.
If you want to go different look to some of the old style 1/4 elliptic springs. A straight axle with spring both above and below the axle. If you take a normal spring and cut it in half, attach the cut half to the frame, one on top, one on bottom. Then the eye end is attached to the axle, again one spring eye above, one below.
I will see if I can find a link.

all accurate awesome points. the propensity to jack at the d28 dimensions is what killed the b2....it was a rolee-polee...

yeah...you can use links and leafs....old school to be sure.

from...http://www.zukioffroad.com/tech/rear-quarter-14-elliptical-suspension/

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The 1/4 elliptic shown above is meant for rock crawling. The one I'm thinking of and posted a link to is built for the salt flats. Two totally different applications of 1/4 elliptic. I wish I could find a pic to post, it would really show the differences between the two.

 

[Dirtman]

That suspension is going to give me nightmares...

 

[bobbywalter]

The 1/4 elliptic shown above is meant for rock crawling. The one I'm thinking of and posted a link to is built for the salt flats. Two totally different applications of 1/4 elliptic. I wish I could find a pic to post, it would really show the differences between the two.

On my cuda' and a few Camaros I tied the front arms together with a glass leaf like a loaded sway bar. Works pretty well...

Very familiar with salt flat cars and 1/4 e style suspension you refer to.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Just so this doesn't get left wide open and unanswered, I made a decision.

None of the above (mostly)

I decided to go with making the Ranger setup the best it can be. I really wanted to make it something it was not, and I guess I'll file that away in the back for later.

The decision going forward with.my build is Explorer rear axle, and Dana 35 TTB front with a lot of inspiration being taken from @BlackBII. Watched his video on his front end, and was inspired. I think with my Volvo steering setup, his long radius arm and front end k member linkage setup on a barely lifted truck could prove very interesting, especially if I cut my body panels back to allow my tires to articulate fully. That with a few jeep days mods to both front and rear sway bars could make for a very interesting sleeper truck.

Until then, I have to get to work on this:

1999 Explorer rear axle, 8.8 limited slip 3.73 with disc brakes. Going to try to keep the Explorer features with the third shock, and both Explorer and Ranger rear sway bars on disconnects. Planning to mount shocks on same side of axle as well.

I really wanted to convert to the one piece driveshaft, but every single one in the junkyard was messed up. Still looking for one, but don't know if I can get back to the JY before the bad weather starts.

Thanks to all of you that came up with suggestions. The only reason I decided to go this direction was the original intent of the truck - make it the best it can possibly be, while sticking to the original design. Yes, I've added a lot of crap it never had from the factory. However, same as I decided to go forced induction 2.9 instead of the far easier 4.0 swap, I'm sticking with the solid rear axle/TTB front, just with a lot of homebrew solutions for factory issues (like the 2.9's lack of low end grunt).





Correct me if I'm wrong here, please!

 

[Uncle Gump]

That looks like a pile...

Of work.... to be young and full of energy again.

Looks like you forgot a few sockets back under the truck...

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

That looks like a pile...

Of work.... to be young and full of energy again.

Looks like you forgot a few sockets back under the truck...

Haha, nah, I just hate those socket holders and toss everyrhing back.into my bag. I really need to find socket holders that don't suck.

 

[JOLENE_THE_RANGER]

did you rob the titanic??
oh, heres that picture