1988 Ranger Restoration - Keeping a Promise

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Definitely was talking about the bumper. And I'm about to agree. Not a fan. But, beats the no longer legal ones I had on the front and back.

Rear isn't as bad.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

I have never liked those style LED lights, gives it a bad look. Would look better with the projector style in my opinion.

www.amazon.com/dp/B003XFJKU0

Wish I could justify the cost on them. I liked the $40 price point of these. Tons of light, way better than stock.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Next job is the steering. Tired of gently nudging myself away from a Richard Hammond-style driving experience while at speed on the highway. Saw a few fox body guys go a slightly different route than the rest with the electric over hydraulic system.

Picked up the EPAS pump out of a Volvo S40. Made me laugh when I saw it marked "FoMoCo." looks fairly straightforward to rig up. Two main power wires, a relay wire, and what looks to be a pair of adjustment wires for level of assistance.

Why? Eh. I like learning new stuff. From what I've heard, if properly set up, it will make an average (in my case, an economy pickup turned rot box) vehicle handle like a much higher line vehicle. The idea of running a lower demand system intrigues me as well. I put the 3g alternator on, may as well make it earn it's keep. Plus, my pump is on its last legs, and ya'lls older posts convinced me manual steering was a bad idea.



I also need room to cram a supercharger in alongside the motor, so one of the accessories has got to go. When you get to hell Mr. Whining Power Steering Pump, you tell them who sent you!

 

[adsm08]

Check out the bearing in the steering column. If it is bad, or in the wrong place, it makes the steering get wonky.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Check out the bearing in the steering column. If it is bad, or in the wrong place, it makes the steering get wonky.

Will do. Been planning on tearing down the one out of the parts truck, rebuilding it, and sticking it back in mine.

 

[Ranger850]

The rear doesn't look AS bad

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

The rear doesn't look AS bad

I can send you the old ones; the rear will definitely fit in a small flat rate.

 

[Ranger850]

I can send you the old ones; the rear will definitely fit in a small flat rate.

Probly be red sand when it got here

 

[Uncle Gump]

Those bumpers are period correct for that truck... I would hold off to pass final judgement on them. Once you get the suspension done and some proper rubber... maybe some lights on the front bumper... it will look more at home.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Side note, should we find out?

Edit: Nope. Well, their loss.

 

[adsm08]

Side note, should we find out?



View attachment 26233





Edit: Nope. Well, their loss.

View attachment 26235

Go for it, but I already know the answer because I looked into it.

Two of Uber's requirements are the vehicle must be a 4-door, and cannot be more than 10 years old. Personally I thought it would have been cool to use a classic land yatch from the 40s or 50s, but they "have to have seatbelts"

 

[Ranger850]

Side note, should we find out?
Edit: Nope. Well, their loss.

Go for it, but I already know the answer because I looked into it.

Two of Uber's requirements are the vehicle must be a 4-door, and cannot be more than 10 years old. Personally I thought it would have been cool to use a classic land yatch from the 40s or 50s, but they "have to have seatbelts"

I'm not totally sure, but I think LYFT allows older cars like "Classic" and/or "Custom" and are less strict about how old the car is. I've seen some cars with the 'lyft' light, and the were less than stellar, to say the least. While my neighbor does "uber" for a living, they told him to get a newer car, he had a decent Pathfinder, traded it for a Camry that was just 2 or 3 yrs old.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Solved an interesting problem with what I thought was my TFI module last night (I was wrong in thinking it was the TFI module).

A while back I relocated my TFI into the core support. It's mounted it on a heatsink with a PC fan to try to mitigate heat issues. Definitely cleared up a few by doing this, but something continued to feel "off" at times. Module was staying stone cold, yet I was still having timing issues during warm up cycle and under load. Hm.

Since day one, getting the timing on this truck set was a b*tch. Setting to 10 degreed BTDC was a daunting task, as the timing marks would usually "walk" around +/- 2 to 3 degrees with a light on it and the SPOUT connecter removed. I had chalked this up to "old tech" and bad TFI modules. Holy crap was I wrong.

On a whim, I tore apart my distributor, tossed it in the ultrasonic cleaner, hit the shaft with polishing compound, and replaced the hall effect sensor with a new Motorcraft brand name one.

Fired it back up after losing the tie down bolt down the back side of the engine at least half a dozen times (seriously, who designs this crap...), and put the timing light to the crank pulley.

Zero. Walking. Swiss watch precision. I was giddy. I've never seen an engine this precise in holding time at idle. I can literally set timing to fractional degrees now.

I set to 10 degrees BTDC and went for a drive.

The idle and under load performance is night and day. If the tie down bolt wasn't my mortal enemy, I'd absolutely shoot a video of the before and after. I cannot recommend this highly enough if you're reading this and have a 2.9 that just won't time properly, or stutters, or hesitates, CHANGE YOUR HALL EFFECT PICKUP. They're cheap. Odds are it's a 30 year old sensor, and has been through countless heat and cool cycles. This sensor allows your tfi to keep time in your engine, and your EEC to advance and retard it. Do it right, buy a Motorcraft, and change it. Clean and pre-lube your distributor while you're in there. Your 2.9 will thank you.

I can't help but wonder how many 2.9s hit the crusher over that sensor.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

So before I start this, has anyone tried the FoMoCo / Volvo EPAS swap? Or am I the first to do it on a Ranger?

Interesting side note, the pump is rated for 120 bar (~1700 psi). So even if I don't get my steering to work with it, now I have hydraulics. Don't know what I'd ever do with hydraulics, but cool nonetheless.

Truly amazing how small it is for so much power. Junkyard is having a half off sale this week. May go grab a few more.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Here's something up your alley..