manual locking hubs

Black_Splash · Nov 14, 2007

I have recently upgraded my auto locking hubs on my truck to the more reliable manual locking hubs. I've noticed that the hubs get warm and it doesn't matter if they are locked in or not. Is this normal or do I have the inner lock nuts to tight?

Evan · Nov 14, 2007

Black_Splash said:
I have recently upgraded my auto locking hubs on my truck to the more reliable manual locking hubs. I've noticed that the hubs get warm and it doesn't matter if they are locked in or not. Is this normal or do I have the inner lock nuts to tight?

The warmth wouldn't be from the hubs. I'd check the wheel bearing preload like you suggested.

(A little warmth is normal at highway speeds.)

Black_Splash · Nov 14, 2007

The hubs aren't hot, I can grab them and not burn myself. I followed the directions in the tech library that Chris Emmons submitted. He said to tighten it to 16 inch pounds but like to tighten then up a little more because of larger tires, sometimes up to 1/4 turn. That on mine torqued it back to 35 foot pounds and that is where I left it.

racsan · Nov 14, 2007

maybe youre on the brakes alot and its just heat transfer from brake useage. i have this, think maybe my calipers may be sticking some.
________
vapir no2 vaporizer

projectnitemare · Nov 14, 2007

They are going to get warm. Anytime you use the brakes you will create heat. The hub is touching the rotor and though conduction the hub body will get warm also. This is normal. If it is getting too hot to touch or the lockout is melting then you have a brake that is hanging up.

Matt

4x4junkie · Nov 15, 2007

Black_Splash said:
The hubs aren't hot, I can grab them and not burn myself. I followed the directions in the tech library that Chris Emmons submitted. He said to tighten it to 16 inch pounds but like to tighten then up a little more because of larger tires, sometimes up to 1/4 turn. That on mine torqued it back to 35 foot pounds and that is where I left it.

That's WAAYY too much.

16 inch-lbs is all they need. Anything more is asking for them to burn up & disintegrate.

The OUTER locknut should get torqued down real tight though (225-250 ft-lbs)

MAKG · Nov 15, 2007

That's right. You don't need significant preload on the bearings. The reason for the 16 in-lb spec is to get the play out. 16 in-lb is a little more than you would expect from the inside bearing seal alone. It's the same spec as the differential pinions. Opposed cone bearings need the play removed, but don't need preload beyond that.

When you do preload them, that translates to friction. Very much like dragging the brakes.

So, I strongly suggest repacking the bearings (correctly, this time), and you may need four new ones.

Black_Splash · Nov 17, 2007

I re torqued the hubs yesterday and when I drove it today they didn't get no way near as hot. I just hand tightened them this time. I had to back them off more than a quarter of a turn, like the instructions say, before I re tightened them.

metalmacguyver · Nov 17, 2007

did you reinspect them and repack them too? even though you fixed the problem, the bearings may already be damaged. sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Black_Splash · Nov 17, 2007

metalmacguyver said:
did you reinspect them and repack them too? even though you fixed the problem, the bearings may already be damaged. sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

I didn't really drive my truck much between then and now. They seemed to fine. After I put the tires back on I checked for wheel wobble also. I can really tell a difference, the wheels spun more freely.

manual locking hubs

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