85 Bronco 2 issues

Ok I will start by stating what is going on with my truck:

Hard to start. Cranks and wants to turn over but in general it does not start (have checked and yes there is spark). When I do finally get it to start I have to keep it at a high RPM or it will attempt to die or will just die. The carb does have fuel standing in it when trying to get it to start and even when it has run for a few minutes. What I have been told is the main power wire...comes from driver side has a clip and then goes to the alternator....gets EXTREMELY hot just after the clip but is not hot at alternator or before the clip. I can take pics of what I am talking about if it helps.

This is what has been done by a mechanic as well as by myself since Jan 09:

Carburetor--Mortorcraft
Distributor
Alternator
Engine has less than 67K on it not sure of exact date it was replaced.

New ignition module, May 09
Smog pump removed (dont need emissions testing where I live, still has air pump on at this point)
Replaced many of the vacuum hoses (all those small original hard plastic hoses as they were melted and deteriorated due to age)
New cap and rotor
Replaced both inline and carb fuel filters
Replaced PCV hose that was full of holes and cracks....PCV itself was still in good shape.


I am currently at a loss as to what else I should be checking into with this truck. I could really use some more direction. We have checked the timing and it is off a little bit we just either cant get to where we need to in order to adjust it or we are looking in the wrong spot. I am trying to learn as I go along from friends that know some stuff, the book, and what I can find online because being a college student I dont have the money to take this to a mechanic....so I am trying to avoid that avenue all together but if it becomes something that is too much for me to try to do I will figure it out.

I just want to say now thank you for any advice and help you can offer.
Shannon

pictures or a blog video of the start process would help tremendously

depending on whether or not it has sat around for a while since it last ran;
6 months of sitting with all those additives will gum up the fuel passages on the carb

you're not getting enough fuel, or your timing is way off. there is always a notch on the flywheel that centers on some sort of flanged thingee down near the crankshaft. my favorite since I do it so often: wires installed the wrong direction, IE clockwise.

if it cranks fast, then kinda winds up to higher rpm, the distributor is possibly 1 lobe retarded. generally there will be misfires out the tailpipe. if it cranks regular but slows down for a cyl or two, OR backfires up the carb, timing is too far advanced.

if it cranks decently, with no hesitation or misfires, might be too lean. close the choke or add a splash of fuel down the carb barrel and see what you get being careful to avoid flames and related fire stuff when you crank. Keep a fire extinguisher handy..

the "main wire" is probably pinched which changes the electrical properties at the clamp, or could be corroded because the plastic coating failed. same results. get new wire is the fix.

My dads truck is that way on start up like 50% of the time but thats because its getting a little to much fuel on start up. But it also had idling problems too that we had to keep it at high rpms to keep it running but it turned out to be that one of the vacuum plugs on the vacuum tree blew off when it back fired into the carb. on night. Then last week the TFI module went out when he got to work. But as for you I would get a manual and go over all the wires and make sure non of them are melted, dryrotted, etc...

The heat in the wire is caused by resistance - fix or replace the connection.

piotrsko is right about the timing. You may want to try starter fluid instead of pouring gas down the carb.

What I'm not sure about is your vacuum lines. Most of the original lines have to do with the computer controlled solenoids; so if you have a DuraSpark conversion, they will do nothing. (For instance, the air pump valves are controlled by vacuum.)

The tip about a vacuum leak on that 'tree' behind the carb is a good one; I replace those caps every now and then just to be safe. Cracked ones cause problems that are hard to trace.

Well we tried to do the starter fluid but it didnt start with it. We also checked with the fluid to see if there was any "sucking" at the carb gaskets, again nothing. We adjusted the timing some but it still doesnt want to start....it did help some but it still doesnt want to turn over.

I have been told it may be the fuel pump but dont think that is the problem because it is getting fuel in the carb you can not only smell it but you can see it when pushing on the gas peddle.

The friend I bought the truck from informed me that the mechanic had to put in 3 different Holley carbs because there was some defect with them. I dont know if I should call the mechanic back up to find out or not because he is of course not the easiest person to talk to but it is still all under warranty and my friend is still the legal title holder.

I am going to go disconnect all the distributor wires and make sure the the firing order is proper...double check that I didnt put them back on wrong or something.

I did find a few more wires that needed repair...nothing like removing electrical tape that is on poorly and having all the wire coating come off with the tape....all better now.

If I could figure out how to attach a video I would do that so maybe if someone can let me know I will take some video with my phone (it has audio also) I will get it on here so you can hear and see what I am talking about.

Thanks again for all the help.

use photobucket or youtube for videos and put the link on like a picture or such.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kErvKBnrwMM

This is a link to the audio and video I just took of my truck while trying to start this morning. We just replaced the hashed connector and wire for the alternator. It did start right off the bat but then died and wouldnt start back up. Hopefully being able to see what the engine is looking like and sounding like will be helpful.

Ok so I called the mechanic that did all the work on the truck before I got it. He says it is stuff from the tank getting stuck in the carb causing the carb to not shut off the fuel and so it keeps shooting into the carb. He said to change the plugs..."they are going to be covered in grime and gas".....they were disgusting and burnt with crap on them. He told me how I could go about causing the fuel to basically blow the crap that is holding the needle open. He also told me that pretty much I am stuck with this problem and will more than likely have to do it several times and eventually get a new carb because all the crap will eventually be filling the bowl?

If I replace the gastank can I save myself from all of this headache or if I replace the inline fuel filter once or twice a month will that help? I am still having a hard time to get it to start but we also had to pull a plug wire off of another vehicle....my friend broke one OOOPS!!

I really do love this truck and know that once it is fixed it is going to be an awesome rig for years to come.

Again thanks guys I really do appreciate all of your help.
Shannon

Ok after talking to my grandfather I have come to the conclusion that I am going to the wreckers and getting a new tank to put in. They have a grad A at the yard for 35 bucks which means it is clean and in good condition dont have the 135+ to put into a brand new tank at this point. Basically I am going to go from one end of this truck to the other with the fuel system and hopefully get it fixed and running and not have this problem anymore.

I am wanting to go from the original, under the A/C and powersteering pump, on the front corner of the engine fuel pump and put in an inline fuel pump but could def use some advice and poiinters on that one. Then the stupid A/C stuff is gonna be gone. My husband is upset but it is all in the way and dangit we live in Oregon it doesnt make sense to have it in there for 4 days out of the flipping year LOL. Anyone want to buy a good A/C unit?

Your pick up unit in your gas tank should have a filter on the end of it to keep rust and crud from going into your fuel system. My dad took his off (big mistake) and after a couple of days of driving and two blocks away from the house the truck died. When we got it home and took the filter off the carb it was packed with fine rust from the tank. So what we did was put a clear plastic in line filter on it (right under the drivers door in the rubber line) and it worked great plus we could see when to change it but after having to replace it every 2 to 3 weeks we put a brand new tank in it plus left the in line filter in it. But from the looks and sounds of the video it isnt getting fuel.

Oh it is getting fuel believe me. After trying to get it started if you look into the carb you can actually see fuel in it...not like puddles but everything is wet and we have actually seen fuel bounce back out of the carb when the choke is open.

shanabe said:

Anyone want to buy a good A/C unit?

Click to expand...

I'll take a couple of hoses, Its get hot down here in GA!

Ok so now so much later STILL having issues LOL

Did drop tank and pulled out the intake/pick up thing and like you said the screen was bad. Cleaned out the tank even ran all new fuel line with mechanical fuel pump bypassing the old one. Got someone over that knows about carbs and he found that the needle and seat was seriously plugged open and the bowl was full of crap.

Right now cant get the damn thing to turn over and I dont get it. New plugs, changed TFI again but not sure why at this time why it will not just turn over and drive away everything should be fixed dammit!!!!

Thanks guys for any advice you have.

Right now going to test coil and distributor again.

These engine can run without the computer but the timing wont advance for you. From what people say, unplug the spout connector, should be attached to a yellow wire going to the TFI module and try to start it. If it starts and runs, hook it up while its running. If the engine dies, then you have a bad computer. But get the carb. cleaned first.

Well FFS!!! So I did this as you suggested DR and that is what the case was. Can it run without the spout being hooked up or is that a bad no no? See what I know LOL.

I have been told though that I do not have a computer and havent got a clue what to do with where the wire goes to which is the EEC IV box on the passenger wall inside the truck.