View Full Version : 86 fullsize bronco ?s
11-22-2008, 12:59 AM
any one know about them?
rusty ol ranger
11-22-2008, 01:55 PM
What do you wanna know?
D44/8.8 Front and rear axles
C6, AOD, and T18 trans options
300 inline, 302, and 351W Engine options
The 300 and 351 were both carbed, with the 351 offering the 4bbl H.O option, the 302 would be Fuel Injected.
Good trucks and decent wheelers, tough as nails and seat 5 people (6 with optional front bench), and i believe still had removable tops in 86.
Towing capacitys, im not sure of but are probely somewhere in the same realm as Shortbox F150's of the same era.
3.08's, 3.55's, 3.73 and i believe 4.10 gearing options.
Be more specfic on what you need to know man?
11-23-2008, 01:06 AM
the common problems, and how hard it is to fix rusted out rear wheelwells
rusty ol ranger
11-23-2008, 09:33 AM
Well, anything thats common on Ford trucks.
First off, Rust, Wheel Arches, Rockers, Cab corners, are the places to really watch. In addition on the bronco the tailgates seem to get eat away as well.
Power rear windows, also seem to take a shit in short order on them.
The removable tops, seem to also leak like a siv in anything but the lightest rain storm.
The 300 inline has a Electronic Feedback Carb that is an absoulte nitemare, its easy to remedy though by changing it out with an older (pre 83) 1bbl from a 300, or going all out and putting a 4bbl on it.
The 302 of that era was EFI, so igntion module problems are common, as are Fuel Pressure regulators and other electonics relatated issues.
The 351's seemed to be pretty solid that year problem wise, the holley carbs on 4bbl versions were known for sticking floats though.
The rest of the drivetrain, the C6 and T18 4sp's are pretty much bulletproof, the 3spW/OD trans (that i forgot to metion eariler) is a decent tranny, but is usually used in conjuction with extremely high rear end gears, and makes for an overall dog of a vehicle in the power Department.
The AOD Automatic Overdrive is a decent trans, just dont abuse it.
The axles are pretty troubless.
Automatic Locking hubs, avoid. Sometimes you get lucky and they work, other times they are junk. They are eaisly replaced with lockouts though.
Im not sure if the Touch Drive 4x4 was available in 86, but if it was, AVOID IT LIKE THE PLAUGE, they are junk (not the transfer case, but all the electonrics assosiated with shifting it), get one with a manual T case.
As far as fixing wheel arch rust, the only right way to do is is cut them out and weld in new panels. Wheel archs rust from the inside out so grinding off surface and repainting it will only mask the problem for a few months at best.
12-10-2008, 10:29 PM
if the arches are rusting, then your wheel humps are rusting also. The rear of the tubs rust out, also some people have problems where the side seams in with the bed floor. The B pillars at the bottom rust also. Watch your fuel tank, its pinched between a skid plate and straps, the skid plate holds dirt and moisture close to the tank and causes rust, get a plastic unit from Jeff's.
The reason why the tailgates rust is the seals suck same problems with the blazers, basically water pours in from the window and sits inside. The motors are the same motors from passager side (if I remeber correctly) of any ford car or truck from the 50's through the mid 90's. Generally you can rebuild the motor if it still makes noise, the kits like $10. Basically any tub made in the 80's and 90's will fit on the truck, same with the tailgate (the latches changed in 83 if I recall correctly)
Part sources is Jeff's Bronco Graveyard, LMC truck
They are great trucks, I have a 88 its my plow truck, not to bad of a little truck, pushes like mad, the 302 runs like a bat out of hell. The body is rusted and might swap my tub out with a 92-96, or just a 96 pickup cab I have laying around. I finally got the wiring figured out ;) now I can pull codes off it and it runs great!!
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