- Joined
- Aug 7, 2007
- Messages
- 2,384
- Reaction score
- 39
- Points
- 48
- Location
- Michigan
- Vehicle Year
- 1984, 1997
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 302, 2.3
- Transmission
- Manual
- My credo
- If you're not making mistakes, you're not learning.
So I put some 10,000lb tow hooks on my '97 Ranger, I did the rear but not the front yet. But they're still hard to get to and the bracket for the bumper looks like it might be able to slice through the tow strap (or at least seriously fray it) if it rubs against it just right. They're about as far towards the back as I could get them. I'd rather not get caught and have to use my bumper ball hitch again (flame me for that in a PM please, and it was before the tow hooks were installed).
My roommate last year wheeled a Suburban (it was stock 4wd with decent A/T's) with a class V Reese in the rear with a clevis on it, and it yanked even other full size rigs out without a problem.
I do not plan to tow anywhere near that much with this hitch. My truck has a stock 2.3L 4 banger, 5 speed and open 2wd - STD cab, and a short box. It is kept on the street and is not built. The hitch will not be the limiting factor. All I'm looking for is something really beefy that I can more easily get to and still be safe.
Some of the pics for the universal fit ones look adjustable? Thats why I'm wondering.
OR since I have buddies that weld for a living, what size tube/plate steel do the class V's use? (or would be an appropriate size) I'd really rather not go this way though, because I'm rather limited on fab equipment. But I can drill holes .
My roommate last year wheeled a Suburban (it was stock 4wd with decent A/T's) with a class V Reese in the rear with a clevis on it, and it yanked even other full size rigs out without a problem.
I do not plan to tow anywhere near that much with this hitch. My truck has a stock 2.3L 4 banger, 5 speed and open 2wd - STD cab, and a short box. It is kept on the street and is not built. The hitch will not be the limiting factor. All I'm looking for is something really beefy that I can more easily get to and still be safe.
Some of the pics for the universal fit ones look adjustable? Thats why I'm wondering.
OR since I have buddies that weld for a living, what size tube/plate steel do the class V's use? (or would be an appropriate size) I'd really rather not go this way though, because I'm rather limited on fab equipment. But I can drill holes .