Class IV/V hitch that can fit a Ranger? (more in post)

Captain Ledd · Mar 19, 2008

So I put some 10,000lb tow hooks on my '97 Ranger, I did the rear but not the front yet. But they're still hard to get to and the bracket for the bumper looks like it might be able to slice through the tow strap (or at least seriously fray it) if it rubs against it just right. They're about as far towards the back as I could get them. I'd rather not get caught and have to use my bumper ball hitch again :icon_surprised:

(flame me for that in a PM please, and it was before the tow hooks were installed).

My roommate last year wheeled a Suburban (it was stock 4wd with decent A/T's) with a class V Reese in the rear with a clevis on it, and it yanked even other full size rigs out without a problem.

I do not plan to tow anywhere near that much with this hitch. My truck has a stock 2.3L 4 banger, 5 speed and open 2wd - STD cab, and a short box. It is kept on the street and is not built. The hitch will not be the limiting factor. All I'm looking for is something really beefy that I can more easily get to and still be safe.

Some of the pics for the universal fit ones look adjustable? Thats why I'm wondering.

OR since I have buddies that weld for a living, what size tube/plate steel do the class V's use? (or would be an appropriate size) I'd really rather not go this way though, because I'm rather limited on fab equipment. But I can drill holes

.

Wicked_Sludge · Mar 20, 2008

most class III/IV hitches that are designed for rangers (eg. direct bolt on) are rated for upward of 10,000lbs. and thats usually a conservative estimate in order to factor in forces created due to inertia.

a 1-ton chevy diesel and i once broke a 1/2" clevis grab hook (thats about 12,000lbs work load) on my class III/IV receiver (i was a little stuck).

Captain Ledd · Mar 20, 2008

WOW. Well that would certainly make things a little easier. It's good to know that even if I go class III/IV that it's got the strength to hold up to a good yank :icon_thumby:

I think I remember you saying what brand yours was in some other post, Hopefully I can find it again.
*edit: HA! post right below this one. Valley eh? I'll look into them more tomorrow sometime.

Can a later '98+ work on a '97 and earlier? I think I saw the answer to this one too in my searches... hmm.. (goes to search more) I seem to find them rated for more weight overall..
*2nd edit: Yup, any hitch seems to fit on any Ranger, style side bed anyways. Well this opens up a bunch of choices.

Wicked_Sludge · Mar 20, 2008

im not sure on the 98/97 years spread. logic tells me they SHOULD be interchangable, but i just dont know for sure.

Ranger44 · Mar 20, 2008

I've got a very heavy duty hitch for a Ranger. I'd sell it cheap. Let me know if you'd interested and I'll get pics and measure the bolt holes.

Will · Mar 20, 2008

Your 10,000# hook isn't 10,000#. It's 2 little half-inch bolts bolted to 3" of a frame flange--which you are not supposed to drill through or weld on. That's the usual situation--forgive me if yours are not like that as you didn't include pictures.

A receiver hitch being class 4 or 5 means nothing. SAE J684 gives values for ratings for up to and below 10,000# only. The Class-V is make-believe--invented by manufacturers.

A class-3 hitch is rated over 3,500# up to 5,000# and a class-4 is over 5,000# up to 10,000#. That means you can call a hitch rated at 5,001# a class 4.

You know what? If you are using 1/2" bolts in your receiver it's too small for 10,000#. My receiver is rated at 10,000# and it has 8x 9/16" bolts in it. The receiver on my B2 says class 3/4 and has i think 6x 1/2" bolts. A hook that says 10,000# means the hook itself won't break at an instananeous 10,000#. It says nothing about the little 3/16" Ranger frame and 2 meager bolts. A towing class 3 is obviously different-it will take several times that 10,000# amount of instantaneous load as it will have at least 6x 1/2" bolts instead of 2--and they will be well spaced and connected to both frame members. I would recommend that you not use the pathetic little 3/16" frame flange--use a receiver on both ends. You can put the end of the strap through the 2" receiver and use a pin to retain it.

Captain Ledd · Mar 20, 2008

I see what you mean about the tow hooks. I junked the standardless bolts and nuts that came with it and put grade 8's in with grade 8 washers in top and bottom. yeah it's only two like you mentioned, but I felt it was safer than the ball hitch. I said that it was a 10,000# hook because that's was what was stamped on the side of it. Yeah it's drilled through, and it at the very end where there is a gap between the end of the frame rail and the bumper.

I'm working on the safety issue, as thats why we're here in this post. I'll eventually get a receiver for the front, but for now the tow hooks will suffice, 2 measly bolts and all.

I suppose the best I can do is make sure the site lists the picture as an actual photo and judge the build quality for myself in terms of mounting points and the like.

Whats the frame flange? I bolted them to the solid chunk of steel that runs the length of the truck.

Will · Mar 21, 2008

The frame is a C-channel. The top and bottom are flanges and the side is called the web. The web is safe to drill and weld to. The flange is not--particularly in the back where you might hook a trailer with tongue weight that could cause a bending moment. The hook should be bolted through the web if you are going to bolt it. On the front, the flange part probaby won't see any stress.

The hooks suck because they bend the flange out easily as the frame isn't supposed to be loaded like that. Also, the bolts are so close together that they give the strap a lot of leverage to damage the frame with. They are best used on a bumper with something like 1/4" plate that connects to both frame rails. I have one on mine like that. On the rear I use the pin through the strap thing.

A 3/4" hitch ball has more meat than 2x 1/2" bolts and a 1" hitch ball shank has more than twice the cross sectional area than 2x 1/2" bolts. The moral of the story below is to ditch the hook and get a 10,000# 2 5/16" ball with a 1 1/4" shank for recovery.
http://employment.alberta.ca/documents/WHS/WHS-PUB_FR-2004-03-17.pdf

I think you need to get receivers if you plan on doing any recovery. I find it vey easy to use the pedal instead of my brain so I plan accordingly.

Captain Ledd · Mar 21, 2008

The way my bumper ball hitch is now bent says otherwise (I think it's a 2 1/4"?), and it wasn't even a hard yank. I've seen several hitch balls get ripped off and much fewer hooks ripped off, mainly none (not saying it doesn't happen, nor calling you a liar). My experience has been that hooks hold up a little bit better. Though I agree with the reasons you mentioned above, more bolts = more strength and that the hitch balls are stronger than the 2 bolts, the bumper is probably similar thickness as the frame, and probably weaker metal.

I'm going to get a nice receiver hitch and get that on the back at the very least.

I'm looking at this one, it's the highest rating I've found for a Ranger one and I don't have to screw with my spare tire bracket (kind of nice). Can't get a good look at how it mounts though.
http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/?Ntt=ford+ranger+reese+hitch+33058

Class IV/V hitch that can fit a Ranger? (more in post)

Captain Ledd

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Wicked_Sludge

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Captain Ledd

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Wicked_Sludge

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Ranger44

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Will

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Captain Ledd

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Will

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