2.9L Heads

SuperRob · Aug 7, 2007

Reinstalling heads on 2.9 and trying to make'r run!

Just wondering if theres a difference between the left side and right side heads on a 2.9l? I'm aware that the head gaskets are different, but cant seem to identify any differences between the 2 actual heads....any help is appreciated!

MAKG · Aug 7, 2007

Nope, no difference.

One is just the other rotated 180 deg. Coolant flow is regulated by the head gaskets (that's why they are different -- the difference is that the small coolant holes go in front).

They even crack in the same place (#1 and #6, right through the Ford logo).

SuperRob · Aug 7, 2007

Thanks MAKG.

But I cant see this Ford logo that you talk about. I'm going to keep cleaning them up, but can you explain a little more exactly where it is?

Much appreciated!

MAKG · Aug 7, 2007

On my (former) 86TM castings, it was located directly on top of #1 and #6, near the rocker pedestal. The later castings might differ.

SuperRob · Aug 7, 2007

I found the logo, but on all 4 heads that I have its located between the valves and the middle pedestal over cylinders 2 and 5.

Tomorrow I'll get the exhaust manifolds all off and spray them with that dye penetrant that I have. I'll find the crack one way or another! Although I wasnt planning on having to take the valves out.

SuperRob · Aug 10, 2007

Just an update on the head replacement battle.

I had to drill out some exhaust manifold bolts on the replacement heads....and I had to do it freehand. Overall I did a pretty decent job, but pretty decent doesnt count for much when you try to bolt everything together and end up with one bolt that just doesnt want to thread.

SHIT!

MAKG · Aug 10, 2007

It's a flange. Can you get a nut behind it?

Or just tap it to the next size?

SuperRob · Aug 10, 2007

I was thinking about using a nut too. Cant go to a bigger tap because then I'd have to drill out the bolthole in the manifold...and its about 2.5 inches long.

Will keep you updated.

SuperRob · Aug 10, 2007

So I bolted it with a nut on the other end. Made'r work.

But I get out there and figure I best cycle the engine over by hand to make sure theres no cracks in the cylinder walls. And low and behold in #3 I noticed some ugly marks....not like usual scoring though, very irregular and diagonal. I just tested it with dye penetrant. Appears that its not a crack.

Now I'm running a tap thru the head bolt holes and the intake manifold holes to make sure theres nothing in there to screw with me.

I sorta hope that somewehere along the way it gets WAY screwed so I can scrap the project and find a 302.

Back to the battle....and Brooks and Dunn

SuperRob · Aug 10, 2007

Got one head totally on and torqued. The other head is on, I'm halfway through the final step (90 degree turn past 55 ft-lbs) and I broke my damn torx driver. And theres nowhere open to get another one till tomorrrow...so I hope that its not going to be an issue having half of the head torqued fully until morning. We'll see though!

SuperRob · Aug 11, 2007

Ok...well everything is done now up to the fuel rail. Tomorrow morning I have to get the distributor roughly timed (at least withing the 180 degrees!!!) and put the upper plenum on and I reckon it'll take about 1.5 hours or so.

Wish me luck....(shit I hope leaving that head halfway torques overnite didnt screw me over!)

MAKG · Aug 11, 2007

A trick for rough-timing a 2.9L is to put the crank at 10 deg BTDC on the compression stroke (when both #1 valves are completely closed -- which you can see if the passenger side valve cover is off), pull the SPOUT plug out, turn the key on, connect a timing light and hold the trigger down, and turn the distributor until it fires. You could also use a spark tester in place of the timing light.

The Hall effect sensor is effectively a switch, and it will work at arbitrarily low RPM.

SuperRob · Aug 12, 2007

Ok. Here goes.

So I got everything put back together. I have a question regarding 2 ground straps though. Theres one on the harness that plugs into the distributor, I connected it to the back of the upper intake plenum where the AC hose bolts on. Then theres another one off the back of the drivers side head. I dont remember where it bolts to, so I connected it to another point on the intake plenum. Just arbitrarily chose a mounting bolt that bolts the 2 halves of the intake together and stuck the ground there....but I'm pretty sure thats not the right spot.

My battery is dead, dont know why. BUT I did try to get it to run off of a friends car, it turned over (although a little slowly, but it should have been enough to hear something!) but wouldnt fire for the life of me. I checked for spark, and have it at LEAST to the number5 plug (thats the wire I tested it on.) I have fuel pressure, (Tested by relieving all pressure from the fuel rail by way of the schrader valve and then repressurizing it.)

Long and short, she still dont go.

If anyone can let me know that I got those ground straps right I'd appreciate it. Also if you can think of anything thats held you back before when in this kind of spot I'd love the advice.

I got the crank to 10 Degrees BTDC on compression stroke, (verified compression stroke by the ol' finger in the hole method) and then checked on the timing marks. Then I put the distributor in so that when the rotor spun on the way in it lined up with #1 plug) Then I double checked the firing order of the plug wires, and theyre all right.

Tomorrow or Tuesday (most likely Tuesday, I have a paper to write tomorrow) I"ll go back and play a little more.

Thanks for any ideas!

IMenriched · Aug 13, 2007

SuperRob said:
Ok. Here goes.

So I got everything put back together. I have a question regarding 2 ground straps though. Theres one on the harness that plugs into the distributor, I connected it to the back of the upper intake plenum where the AC hose bolts on. Then theres another one off the back of the drivers side head. I dont remember where it bolts to, so I connected it to another point on the intake plenum. Just arbitrarily chose a mounting bolt that bolts the 2 halves of the intake together and stuck the ground there....but I'm pretty sure thats not the right spot.

QUOTE]

I'm pretty sure the other ground strap (small braided thing) goes to the windsheild wiper motor.
there may be a onother ground on the bellhouseing (passagerside) bolt to the cab ...double check that....but I doubt if you took it off for your head job.

good luck...hope this helps

MAKG · Aug 13, 2007

2.9Ls have ONE ground strap to the upper intake. It goes on the driver's side near center. There should be NO other ground straps going there. Both heads have and need grounds. One is a strap (driver's side) and the other is an orange wire coming out of a wiring harness. Leaving either of these out will cause driveability problems.

2.9L Heads

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals