• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

dome light/ key pad


gi728

New Member
U.S. Military - Active
Joined
Oct 1, 2010
Messages
72
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Havelock, NC/ Horeseheads, NY
Vehicle Year
1988/ 2004/ 200
Make / Model
Ford/ Acura/ Fo
Engine Size
2.9/ 2.0/ 6.0
Transmission
Manual
Well this is on a 2002 explorer Eddie, 4.0. The dome light stays on for 20 mins after you shut off the truck. At around the same time this started the keyless entry key pad stopped working as well. It almost seems like the computer thinks the door is open not letting the dome light go out. Also when the key is in the ignition in the off position the ding ding ding sound like the door is open starts and the door is closed. I know that there is an alarm for the key being left in, but they sound different. ( at least to me). And the key has to be in the on position to unlock the doors.
 


a31ford

Electronics GURU
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
Joined
Apr 15, 2012
Messages
571
Reaction score
26
Points
28
Location
Brandon, Manitoba
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.9
Transmission
Manual
20 min. I believe, is the time limit on an open door, so my first guess would be the pin switch for that door.

Because the computer thinks the door is open, trying the other door won't work, because the computer has now "disabled" the dome light.

Try this, roll the windows down, close the doors, take the key out of the IGN. NOW, wait until the light goes out, after that, try the dome light from the headlamp switch, without opening the door, this will tell us something.

Greg
 

gi728

New Member
U.S. Military - Active
Joined
Oct 1, 2010
Messages
72
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Havelock, NC/ Horeseheads, NY
Vehicle Year
1988/ 2004/ 200
Make / Model
Ford/ Acura/ Fo
Engine Size
2.9/ 2.0/ 6.0
Transmission
Manual
there is no pin switch that i can see on this. it must be in the lock its self. idk?
 

a31ford

Electronics GURU
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
Joined
Apr 15, 2012
Messages
571
Reaction score
26
Points
28
Location
Brandon, Manitoba
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.9
Transmission
Manual
There is some form of sensor for the door, just do the test, and we will see. I can't help if the patient is also the diagnostician...... I asked the questions in order to help, replying with another problem ain't gona get you any answers. Sorry for being an ass, but my time is also worth money, just like yours. you want help ?? do the test as asked.

Greg
 

monsterchuck

New Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Messages
156
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Michigan
Vehicle Year
1984
Make / Model
Volkswagen
Engine Size
Compression-ignition
Transmission
Manual
I can almost guarantee the door ajar switch is bad. Very common problem. It is inside the door, on the door latch itself. Pretty easy to change, actually.
 

a31ford

Electronics GURU
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
Joined
Apr 15, 2012
Messages
571
Reaction score
26
Points
28
Location
Brandon, Manitoba
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.9
Transmission
Manual
That is what I thought, but I wanted to eliminate the door/dome timer, that was the reason for the test.

There you go, change the switch, problem solved.
 

adsm08

Senior Master Grease Monkey
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
Ford Technician
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
34,623
Reaction score
3,613
Points
113
Location
Dillsburg PA
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31X10.50X15
The timer should last 10 minutes, not 20.

All the items you listed are things that at some level are controlled by the GEM and all their operation is affected by the position of the driver's door switch. I would start by jumping the door switch closed and seeing what happens.
 

Tuner710

Member
Supporting Member
TRS Banner 2012-2015
Joined
Jan 11, 2012
Messages
154
Reaction score
13
Points
18
Location
Washington State
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
Might try WD-40 on the door latches, where the switch is. Worked on my Expedition with dome lights staying on after door(s) were closed.
 

monsterchuck

New Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Messages
156
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Michigan
Vehicle Year
1984
Make / Model
Volkswagen
Engine Size
Compression-ignition
Transmission
Manual
That's true, I forgot about that trick. Spray some penetrating oil into the door latch, and open and close the door FIRMLY about a dozen or so times. If the switch is stuck, that will usually free it.
 

Happy Camper

New Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2009
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Canada
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Mazda
Engine Size
4.0L
Transmission
Manual
Hi, I've been reading trough the discussion has I have a very similar problem on my 1998 B-4000. Hi also tough one of the door switches was faulty (would stick on the "door open" position") so here is was I did:

I took apart both of the door trims and disconnected the connectors for the switches to check the switches operation. On both sides, I had a closed switch (closed circuit) when the door was open and an open switch (open circuit) when the door was shut, which seems like correct operation of the switches to me...

I also have to mention that my "door ajar" sign will never go out (I had to take the three bulbs out of the dome light to prevent my battery from getting drained...). The interesting part of the story comes here: I also get the "ding ding" whenever I leave the key in the ignition (to the OFF position) with the driver door opened. Correct me if I'm wrong but this confirms that the switch is working properly (as I don't think that the dome light and chime are wired on a different switch).

So, just as Greg suggested, I start to believe now that there is some sord of timed-relay which delays the moment when the dome light extinguishes after the doors got shut and that timer would be stuck closed...

Am I on the right track or simply going deeper in the field?

Thanks!
 

a31ford

Electronics GURU
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
Joined
Apr 15, 2012
Messages
571
Reaction score
26
Points
28
Location
Brandon, Manitoba
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.9
Transmission
Manual
The Big thing here, is that electrical problems almost always need a diagram, (just if nothing else, to find out what all is connected). Many of the newer cars & trucks have one main " body computer" and also an "engine computer", and also have interconnections between the two, the old test light generally kills these computers, because most operate on 5 volts, instead of 12.

Get a diagram of your vehicle, (who ever needs one) and we can go from there.

Greg
Electronics Engineer, as well as many other things.
 

clinton64xl

New Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2012
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Murphy, NC
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
I had the same thing happen to me.. I bought new door jamb switches off of ebay and it solved the problem..
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Members online

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Kirby N.
March Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top