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My emaxx


super91(2.3)

super91(2.3)

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It's not too modded yet. I just bought new batteries and a waterproof esc. Dumped $300 into it to get it back running to snap a driveshaft.. Should I just buy all aluminum or try my luck with another plastic one? Btw, its the 14.4 volt v twin emaxx
 


gribly

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Get a bag of traxxas shafts. Remember - when you upgrade something - the next part is now the weakest link. I used to jump a stock E-Maxx off of my 2nd story garage roof - this was when they first came out.
 
4x4junkie

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Is it the 3905/3903 or 3906 E-Maxx?

3905/3903 = Blue EVX2 stock ESC, dual steering servos, gray chassis
3906 = Orange EVX stock ESC, single steering servo, black chassis
 
super91(2.3)

super91(2.3)

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3906 with an evx2 ESC.. No way to upload pictures. Gribley, I plan on having this turned into an aluminum truck one breakage at a time
 
4x4junkie

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super91(2.3) said:
3906 with an evx2 ESC.. No way to upload pictures. Gribley, I plan on having this turned into an aluminum truck one breakage at a time
Click to expand...
Assuming you're speaking of the driveshaft that goes between the transmission and the rear diff... What i did on my 3906 was take the female end of a stock axle (wheel) shaft and fitted it by trimming it so that the entire length of the splined part of the driveshaft was engaged into the female part (IIRC, you'll need to disassemble the bulkhead at the chassis to install it as it won't telescope inward afterward). This seems to about double their strength and basically put an end to broken driveshafts for me (the front one I rarely had an issue with, it was always the rear that broke on mine).

For the axle (wheel) shafts, what worked on my 3906 E-Maxx were MIP CVD shafts (a piece of shrink tubing was needed around the 'bell' end of the MIP shaft to keep the drive pins from falling out though).


FWIW, as I understand it, aluminum will only increase your rate of failure if you (ab)use it hard (the bulkheads themselves being about the only exception to that). Things such as aluminum A-arms & bumpers just bend into twisty little shapes.
I would suggest Traxxas aluminum bulkheads (only), then use RPM plastic parts everywhere else you can if you want to beat on it (the front lower A-arms were a common breakage spot on mine until I went to RPM stuff). RPM stuff flexes and then springs back without breaking.
 
gribly

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I agree, almost everyone I know that went aluminum everything effectively turned their truck into a shelf queen. The only exception being the guys that had money to burn and went with all Unlimited Engineering parts. unlimitedengineering.com Sit down before you look at prices, though.
 
super91(2.3)

super91(2.3)

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So I have pieced the driveshaft back together. Over christmas my uncle who is big into r/c is bringing me stuff. New driveshafts, new front bulkhead (now both will be aluminum), new shocks, 100k wt lube for difs, and making me a parallel system so I can save battery and really crawl with stock drivetrain. I'm using diamondplate to make skid plate for under the whole truck. It's gonna be a merry Christmas for me!
 
super91(2.3)

super91(2.3)

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Ok, so the uncle shipped the stuff, he is here but the shit ain't. 4 shocks, 4 axle driveshafts, 4 main driveshafts, 100k 300k 500k wt diff grease. Yeehaw, I want snow!!
 
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HERE IS MINE
 
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This pic is what helped me decide to build a Summit.

I already have a 3905 Emaxx (pics cant be uploaded....too big) that only needs new wheels/tires and a Brushelss Conversion to be badass, and completed.

I also have a brushless e-revo 1/16 scale. Mods have begun...funds have stopped..

And of course, my Summit. Which I pilfered some parts from a T-Maxx (parts for sale/ trade...I dont do NITRO!!!) and made the lights work independantly of the rest of the Summit. Waterproofness is unknown, but I dont drive my Summit in creeks and crap, so its not an important thing.
 
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